![]() ![]() View attachment 41349 View attachment 41347 View attachment 41348 View attachment 41350 View attachment 41351 View attachment 41352 View attachment 41353I have a MTD honda lawn mower (Model # 12AV55DQ713) with GCV190 engine. (also a carb adjustment and/or vlave I believe). Next problem will be getting my craftsman lt1000 and dlt5000 to not pop when I shut er down. Thanks a million, if I didn't try what you said I would have been chasing my tail for weeks and probably just given up and bought a new carb for it. I guess now I just gotta find the right float and mixture adjustments and I'll be all set. I adjusted the fuel meter screw at the bottom of the carb, to almost fully opened and it will start, with the choke full on, and the air clearner must be attached or it will not start.īut now full throttle and all else appears to be fine since tighting the carb to the intake, kinda helps out a bit eh? lol. so ignore that last post.Īfter tighting the carb up properly, putting the choke on full and putting my finger in the hole in the choke fly it fired right up. I didn't tighten the carb down to the manifold properly. If I move that fly just a hair (like a millimeter or so) the governor arm pushes it full open and stalls the engine, then holds it there until I crank the engine over a few times and then it reurns to idle and then I spray some starting fluid or gas into the carb and it runs normally. That fly doesn't move though unless I put on the PTO and then it opens up full and stalls the engine. When I put the tractor on full throttle it moves the linkage properly (full motion) and a spring puts tension on what appears to be a governor arm which seems to control the actual fly on the bottom of the carb. The next curious thing (to me anyway cause this is the first time I am seeing it). after an hour it wouldn't start again without either dumping fuel into the carb or spraying starting fluid. so I changed the oil, flushed all the old stuff out, put in new oil and reset the float so it wouldnt flood the engine. it dumps fuel into the oil and spews all over the place. I'll post a picture of the engine and tractor asap, maybe it will help to identify it, remember my side covers are from a different engine that looks exactly the same and bolted right up to this one, but I was told came off a 1980 B&S. ![]() I adjusted the float a bit richer and it made no difference. It will start normally if I pour a little bit of fuel into the carb or use starting fluid. Yes, the choke is fully closed, makes no difference if I suffocate it with my palm. we always thought all chevy small blocks used the same head gaskets until we ran into the 327 and 400. I was told by my local dealer that all opposed twin 18hp BS engines used the same carb in 1979. The problem is there were no side covers on the motor and the body of the tractor was so rusty all the stickers were practilly gone.Īnyway mine is similar to that one above, the carb gaskets, float, pin, fuel mixer screw and spring part numbers all fit my carb. The carb gasket part number is (The manufacturer substituted part 271607 with this new part 273186S) from The closet I can find to my tractor is MODEL NO. I have a 200ft by 20 ft yard with 5 working mowers right now, lol. I pick them up from barns and garages get them running and then either give them to veterines or sell them and donate the money to non profits. I am retired and fixing riding mowers in now my hobby. Tanks in advance, and I will post a followup explaining the resolution in detail. ![]() house in this bunch to come up with something I can't find on google. So this question may be elementary to you guys, I am looking for either confirmation of my suspected problems or the dr. I am an amature small engine guy, I know car engines though and the principles seem the same. I have mowed for over 2 hours with it once it is started, and then shut it down and it fires right up, but if I wait two or more hours I have to fire it on starting fluid then runs perfectly. Other then those two things I can not figure it being anything else. Valve adjustment, coil adjustment (although always has strong spark) Things I think that might cause it, but want to confirm before taking the entire frontend of the tractor/mower apart) It can not be a carb solenoid because this model doesn't have one. Replaced all fuel lines, filter, and cleaned out gas tank. Replaced vacume fuel pump with 4 psi electric pump and 2 psi regulator (tried with and without regulator, never dumped fuel into the oil and fuel filter is always full) Rebuilt carb, replaced float, needle, blew out all holes and tanked in safety clean over night. Tested compression in both cyclinders both cold and warmed up. Once warmed up most of the time will start immediatly on just gas. It will start on starting fluid and then run just fine on gas. I have a Craftsman II 1979 lawn tractor with a horizontal 18HP Briggs and Stratton twin cylinder engine. ![]()
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